Undoubtedly, most people decide to purchase watches because their looks appeal to the buyers. However, let’s not forget that every watch has its skeleton and soul. Yes, I am talking about their movements.
Movements are Souls for Watches
Let’s take a look at what made these masterpieces tick. Today I want to talk about movements specifically from these legends: Rolex, TAG Heuer and Seiko. The reason behind choosing these watchmakers specifically is because they are known for having the best and the most unique movements the market has ever seen.
No list in the world that talks about Rolex’s watch movements is EVER complete without mentioning the calibre 3135. Mark my words.
First of all, it has 31 jewels embedded within. Yet, the workhorse designed for this movement is made for a lifetime. The balance in the calibre, features two pairs of adjusting nuts known as the “Microstella system.” This unique system consists of four screws that were spaced between equally, points along with the balance wheel. When moved towards the center of the balance wheel, the watch’s rate will speed up; when moved away, the rate will slow down.
The caliber also incorporates a Perpetual winding system which is extremely efficient due to bidirectional functionality.BOB’s Watches
In the world of watches, this is truly remarkable.
One of Seiko’s Best Movements
Notice it’s ‘one of’ because in my opinion, Seiko is the king of movements and they have a lot of good ones, but back to best calibre known from Seiko/Grand Seiko, it has to be their unique Spring drive movement. What is so special about it?
By the look of it, Spring Drive movement is indistinguishable from other automatic calibres, there is a rotor, a power barrel and no batteries inside. However, instead of the conventional escapement, you can find an innovative piece of technology called the Tri Synchro Regulator.
The Tri Synchro Regulator uses the kinetic, electrical and magnetic power to regulate the rate of the watch. The best part about this is that the centre of the regulator there is a glide wheel that uses the electromagnet to slow the energy from the mainspring WITHOUT any friction while generating electrical current, resulting in the regulation of the glide wheel, leading to hyper precision.
TAG Heuer’s Improvements
In 2013, TAG Heuer launched a new in-house watch movement called the Calibre 1969 (AKA Calibre CH80). The new Calibre 1969 is nothing like the old Calibre 1887 or any other existing movements, it has a new vertical-clutch mechanic and got rid of the old oscillating pinion used in Calibre 1887.Some key improvements seen in the Calibre 1969 were the 28,800 vibrations per hour (4hz) and 70-hour power reserve. Although there aren’t many wow-factors, this was a pivotal moment for TAG Heuer to move onto something more intricate and complex.
That is all for this time, what is some other movement you want me to introduce or some movements you think I’ve missed? Comment below!
Don’t forget to follow us on social media to stay up-to-date:
facebook: Gentleman Pursuits
Anchor: Gentleman Pursuits
Support the website on Patreon if you like it!
Click here to browse more of our articles!